Today I did my laundry at Edgardo’s place, which was really nice of him. We left the laundry to dry on the roof of his apartment building. While he was at work, I met another guy from the Internet and we had a good talk at a restaurant. I met Edgardo at work and we went to my favorite restaurant in Buenos Aires called Bio in Palermo Viejo. I think it was the first time he had eaten at a vegetarian restaurant. We met two sweet women there who had recently returned from a trip to Paris. We all went for a drink after dinner at another bar in Palermo Viejo, then I went back to Edgardo’s place with him.
Monthly Archives: April 2006
Tigre
Jim e and I took a train from Buenos Aires to a nearby town called Tigre where we boarded a catamaran boat for a tour of the local waterways. Jim e and I were joking on the way there about all the plastic bottles in the water, as if it were some exotic local fauna. The lunch on board the boat was mediocre, as was the scenery. The boat ride itself was otherwise pleasant although they played music from the U.S. the entire time. The main attraction of the ride was a series of boat carcasses left behind in the waterways.
We took the train back to Buenos Aires and Jim e went off on his own while I went to a bookstore to pick up a Portuguese-English dictionary and a guidebook for Brazil. Afterwards, I visited Pride Cafe where a cute waiter invited me to a theater production. Finally, I met Edgardo at his workplace and we walked over to a gay restaurant called Inside Bar for dinner. We were both exhausted and he had to work the next day so we went home early to his place.
Comedor de Piqueteras
Jim e and I went to Puerto Madero thinking we could eat at the Comedor de Piqueteros in support of their work there. The piqueteros are unemployed workers in Buenos Aires who have organized together for government benefits and jobs. One famous piquetero opened a food stall for unemployed people in the middle of the prosperous Puerto Madero neighborhood, which caused a bit of a scandal. When we got there, we found out that we couldn’t eat there since it was free or cheap food for the piqueteros, not for tourists. So we ate at a Caribbean restaurant instead.
Everywhere in Puerto Madero we saw statues of cows.
We walked on the Costanera Sur, full of my favorite Buenos Aires attraction the parrillas or meat stalls, across from a swampy ecological reserve built on landfill which we couldn’t enter because it was closed on Mondays. Since the workers’ strike had ended, we took the Subte (metro) home.
That evening, we ate at Bar 6 in Viejo Palermo and want to Aca Bar for dessert. Palermo is one of the largest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires and has a variety of names for its various parts, such as Viejo Palermo, Soho Palermo, Hollywood Palermo, and so on. Aca Bar is a funny name for a restaurant because the verb acabar in Spanish can mean to orgasm.
Private Places in Buenos Aires
Edgardo kindly invited Jim e and me for lunch at his place, which was really great for both of us. Jim e had been a bit frustrated about not getting a chance to speak Spanish as much as he wanted.
After lunch, we walked to Cafe Tortoni where a famous elderly Argentinian poet named Sabado sat down at a nearby table surrounded by his fans.
I made a silly joke about how hard it was to read his work, since it was only available one day a week (sabado means Saturday in Spanish). It turns out my joke is incorrect for some reason which I’ll try to remember and write here.
Later that day, I called my friend Ezequiel from the World Social Forum in Porto Alegre three years ago. He told us to meet him at a private club which had no sign. We buzzed the doorbell to get in. I enjoyed seeing Ezequiel again, even if Edgardo did get a bit jealous (mistakenly since Ezequiel is totally straight). For some reason, the people living in Buenos Aires, that is the porteños, call straight people “pakis”. It seems odd since Spanish speakers could think it means people from Pakistan as well.
Museum Day and Dulce de Leche
Saturday morning Edgardo and I headed over from his place to the hotel to meet Jim e and wander around the city some more.
We shopped at bookstalls, then walked over to the MALBA Museum and cafe. I really loved both, including the submarino (hot milk and a bar of chocolate you break up and stir into the milk) I drank there.
The art in the museum was fantastic, definitely on a par with the best museums in the U.S. or Europe. Both Jim e and I particularly liked a painter named Xul Solar.
After MALBA, we walked over to the La Flor statue, which is a giant mechanical flower that opens and closes according to the time of day.
Then, we walked by the Law University where we saw the names of those law students disappeared by a former Argentinian government.
We went to the Museo de las Bellas Artes, which was also really great.
Here are some paintings by Xul Solar who painted rainbow flags before they were “invented”:
In the Recoleta neighborhood, we walked past a gigantic baobab tree the size of a city block which was planted around 1800.
We stopped at La Biella Cafe and then for Dulce de Leche ice cream at Freddo’s, an experience not to be missed or forgotten. Finally, we ate a reasonably good restaurant near the giant Abasto shopping mall.
We dropped Jim e off in a taxi on the way to Edgardo’s place. (I probably should have moved out of the hotel by this point, but I wanted the connection with Jim e and I had prepaid the hotel stay.)
Tango in La Boca and Faeries in San Telmo
Wow! What fun. Jim e went off on his own and Edgardo brought me to a colorful neighborhood of Buenos Aires called La Boca.
We walked around the shops and climbed narrow stairways in a place where Italian immigrants lived in tiny rooms when they first arrived in the city.
Then, we sat at a table out on the street at a restaurant where a couple danced tango for the tourists, along with a singer, accordion, and guitar. The big surprise came when the beautiful tango dancer grabbed me from the table and insisted I dance with her in front of the crowd of diners and tourists on the street. I got really embarrassed but she was really good and helped me to dance. Edgardo managed to snap a photo. Later on, she danced with him as well. I had a fabulous time!
Next we met up with Edgardo’s friend Nerissa. We walked through town until we got to the San Telmo neighborhood. We saw an interesting monument at a park and stalls where people were selling all kinds of arts and crafts. We had a coffee at a well-known cafe in San Telmo, then we found an amazing little shop that looked like a faerie homeland.
They sold faeries and dwarves and all kinds of creatures there. I bought some as gifts for folks at home.
To round out the evening, we joined a Catholic procession and Passion Play as part of Easter weekend festivities. People listened to sermons broadcast from speakers on the street and walked along with statues of Jesus and Mary that rolled slowly to the stage in a plaza where a play re-enacted the crucifixion of Jesus with a hunky Jesus and other hunky guys getting crucified.
Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo
Jim e and I got up reasonably early and after a quick breakfast we headed to the Cafe de las Madres near the Plaza de Mayo.
After a drink and a look at the pictures and the list of disappeared persons at the cafe, we walked over to the Plaza de Mayo and watched the mothers and grandmothers as the walked around the plaza. I even walked a bit with them.
I felt moved by their courage in standing up against the abusive Argentinian dictatorship in support of their family members who were “disappeared.”
We met Frank, a French-speaker from Montreal there after earlier meeting him at the hotel.
After searching unsuccessfully for a vegetarian restaurant, we ended up eating at a mediocre restaurant with mate (the ubiquitous tea-like beverage served warm in cured pumpkin gourds), bruschetta, and empanadas (which weren’t as delicious as the one I had near the plastic surgery clinic).
That evening, we went to a vegetarian restaurant called Bio in Palermo Viejo, which was hands down my favorite restaurant in all of Buenos Aires.
La Vida en Buenos Aires
Edgardo was a great pal while I was in Buenos Aires. He and Jim e and I hung out a lot together, well, especially he and I hung out together. He came to the hotel in a taxi to help me change dollars into pesos since I didn’t have any pesos I could use to pay the taxi driver until after I changed money. Afterwards we went to his place for a great “nap”.
He lives with a guy named Javier who is a bit blase about life in Buenos Aires.
Before meeting Andy, another guy from the Internet, I tasted my first real empanada at a place near the plastic surgery clinic where Andy has asked to meet me.
He showed up late and wasn’t at the clinic. We walked around town, bought some books, and ended up eating dinner at a restaurant in Palermo Viejo. During dinner, I found out that he had a boyfriend and hadn’t told his boyfriend that we were meeting. I gave him some advice about honesty in relationships.
Next I met with a guy named Daniel, also from the Internet.
We walked around Palermo Viejo and had a drink at a cafe. He was a nice guy but I got the impression that we didn’t hit it off that well. I later found out that he was hit by a car and injured a bit, so he went to his mother’s place out of town and we didn’t see each other again before I left.
I rounded out the day by going to a couple of gay bars (Sitges and Titanic) with Jim e and a guy staying at the hotel named Raoul. I didn’t really like the bars. Sitges was nearly empty and had only a few foreigners and a nervous under-age boy who got thrown out of the place. Of course, it was a Wednesday night.
Arrived in Buenos Aires
Yesterday, I arrived in Buenos Aires. I spent 20 hours in airports and planes with a bit of turbulence along the way. I really don´t like the traveling part of travel–I prefer being there.
I love the views from above the clouds in airplanes. Sometimes it looks like a glacial mountainous landscape or a dark turbulent ocean or a windswept parched desert.
Fog prevented our landing in Buenos Aires for a couple of hours. We circled around and around. Then, after we landed, I made it through passport control and customs with no problem. I waited for my friend Jim e Sparklepant´s flight to land. His flight was delayed due to fog as well.
We waited for an hour in the airport for the taxi scheduled by the hotel to arrive. It didn´t come so we called the hotel. We waited another hour and it still didn´t arrive so we called the hotel and ordered a taxi from the airport stand, which we should have done in the first place, as it turned out to be just as safe and a bit cheaper.
Of course, the taxi driver drove like a bat out of hell. I thought San Franciscans didn´t respect lane boundaries, but Argentinians have made sliding between lanes a national pastime. I took quite a few deep breaths as the trucks, taxis, and cars narrowly missed changing into the same lane at the same time.
Roberto greeted us upon our arrival at Hotel Bayres, in the Viejo Palermo barrio. He was friendly, and I was a bit grumpy about the taxi. Jim e and I made a pact to converse as much as possible in Spanish so he can become fluent and I can learn. I´m understanding much of what I hear, but occasionally I miss the meaning entirely.
The hotel is inexpensive ($30 per night with shared bath and $40 with separate bath) and the rooms are quaint. The rate includes a continental breakfast served at any time of day.
Before taking a nap, Jim e and I walked to Miranda, a charming restaurant recommended by Roberto. We had pasta with delicious sauces and hearty bread with an herb butter. The servers were very handsome, as are many of the guys and women in Buenos Aires.
Buenos Aires is a busy city with lots of traffic and less respect for pedestrians than in San Francisco. However, if you walk a block or two from the large avenues, you can find relatively quiet streets, much more pleasant for a stroll. Many of the streets are in disrepair with what seem to be sidewalk improvement projects possibly initiated by local residents. Palermo Viejo has a certain charm with some old buildings and lots of shops and restaurants.
After a nap, I met an Internet friend named Daniel. We walked around Palermo Viejo again. Both of us were tired. We ate a snack of bruschetta and drank a beverage at a local restaurant. We talked about his recent trip to Europe and what to do while in Buenos Aires. He is a handsome and cosmopolitan fellow and I´d like to get to know him better.
He walked me back to the hotel and I waited with him for his bus to arrive. Then, I went back to the hotel, chatted with Jim e, played on the Internet a bit, and crashed for 12 hours!
This morning I woke up and Jim e had already left. Roberto pulled my continental breakfast together, which include a dulce de leche topping for the toast.
I must change money today because after the banks close at 3pm, they will be closed for several days for Easter holidays. Another Internet friend named Edgardo is on his way here by taxi to help me change dollars into pesos and hang out until he has to go to work at 5pm. Then, I´ll meet Andy, another Internet friend as he comes out of his appointment at the dentist at 6pm.
Fortunately, the hotel has two computers always available for Internet access, so I should be able to continue writing a lot for the next week or more.